Removing the QC... Details for stubborn chucks
Posted by rjustice
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Removing the QC... Details for stubborn chucks June 15, 2009 10:02PM |
If you have never had the QC off of your machine you will need to use heat. I mentioned in the video that mine had been changed out before, and I only used a couple drops of BLUE locktite on it to keep it from vibrating loose.
I am always glad to help when I can, but keep in mind, that you are doing the following at your own risk. Please be cautious and don’t burn yourself, the belts on your machine, the rubber seals on your spindle bearings, and most importantly, dont burn your building down….
Some of this has been posted before, but this is a more methodical, step by step approach... Thanks to those that came up with the rod idea, I think that was a great idea!
Here we go....
1) Unplug machine
2) Remove the top cover - there has been a report of getting it too hot, and having it warp from the heat inside the machine..
3) Get a piece of 1/2" cold rolled stock from the hardware, and cut it off to a length of about 3” or so. See attached pictures. (I used a 1/2"x3" dowel)
4) Clamp up on this rod in one of the 1/2" QC bit adapters leaving the rod stick out the back of the bit adapter by about 5/8” as show in the pictures.
5) The threads that you are trying to break loose are actually above the bit adapter, so by leaving it stick out, it is up into the chuck exactly where you want the heat. If you look at the last picture, you can see that the rod is not quite flush with the back of the QC when it is out of the bit adapter 5/8.
6) Lock the bit adapter with the rod in place into the QC in the machine. and with the head cranked up close to the top, push the Z truck down to the bottom of it's travel.
7) Use a couple layers of aluminum foil crumpled up to hold its shape, then flatten it a little, and wrap it around the Z body, and the back of the lower head to protect it, and protect the belts from heat. Try to get it situated so there is some air gap between the layers. Also crumple up a couple sheets, and flatten them out to place on the sandpaper belts so you dont accidently burn them.
8) Soak a piece of cloth in cold water, and wrap around the "Z" Truck to isolate from the heat as well.
9) Using a propane torch, heat the end of the rod, for at least 2-3 minutes, using Low to Medium heat. It will start to "Blush Red".
10) Place the thin wrench on the shelf to hold its self, and place the square tool into the top of the spindle.
11) Using a jerking motion (as seen in the video), rather than hard even torque… to try to break it loose.
12) If it doesn’t break free, heat it longer and try again a few times.
13) if this doesn’t work, heat up the plastic ring on the QC, and peel it off with a pair of pliers
14) Apply heat to the steel chuck body where you removed the plastic, and repeat step 10-12.
15) Just keep repeating this, and eventually you will get the loctite to the point of softening enough to break free. When it is hot enough you will know, as it wont take much force.
16) Turn off the torch, smile, and take a nice drink of your favorite beverage! The Hard part is over!!
17) See the "Rock" install video here -> [www.youtube.com]
I hope this helps!
Good luck,
Ron
For a current list, and to order custom tools and accessories I make for your CarveWright, see [www.cw-parts.com]
See a quick video of the new Rock Chuck in action! [www.youtube.com]
See the Rock install video at [www.youtube.com]
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/28/2009 02:24PM by rjustice.
I am always glad to help when I can, but keep in mind, that you are doing the following at your own risk. Please be cautious and don’t burn yourself, the belts on your machine, the rubber seals on your spindle bearings, and most importantly, dont burn your building down….
Some of this has been posted before, but this is a more methodical, step by step approach... Thanks to those that came up with the rod idea, I think that was a great idea!
Here we go....
1) Unplug machine
2) Remove the top cover - there has been a report of getting it too hot, and having it warp from the heat inside the machine..
3) Get a piece of 1/2" cold rolled stock from the hardware, and cut it off to a length of about 3” or so. See attached pictures. (I used a 1/2"x3" dowel)
4) Clamp up on this rod in one of the 1/2" QC bit adapters leaving the rod stick out the back of the bit adapter by about 5/8” as show in the pictures.
5) The threads that you are trying to break loose are actually above the bit adapter, so by leaving it stick out, it is up into the chuck exactly where you want the heat. If you look at the last picture, you can see that the rod is not quite flush with the back of the QC when it is out of the bit adapter 5/8.
6) Lock the bit adapter with the rod in place into the QC in the machine. and with the head cranked up close to the top, push the Z truck down to the bottom of it's travel.
7) Use a couple layers of aluminum foil crumpled up to hold its shape, then flatten it a little, and wrap it around the Z body, and the back of the lower head to protect it, and protect the belts from heat. Try to get it situated so there is some air gap between the layers. Also crumple up a couple sheets, and flatten them out to place on the sandpaper belts so you dont accidently burn them.
8) Soak a piece of cloth in cold water, and wrap around the "Z" Truck to isolate from the heat as well.
9) Using a propane torch, heat the end of the rod, for at least 2-3 minutes, using Low to Medium heat. It will start to "Blush Red".
10) Place the thin wrench on the shelf to hold its self, and place the square tool into the top of the spindle.
11) Using a jerking motion (as seen in the video), rather than hard even torque… to try to break it loose.
12) If it doesn’t break free, heat it longer and try again a few times.
13) if this doesn’t work, heat up the plastic ring on the QC, and peel it off with a pair of pliers
14) Apply heat to the steel chuck body where you removed the plastic, and repeat step 10-12.
15) Just keep repeating this, and eventually you will get the loctite to the point of softening enough to break free. When it is hot enough you will know, as it wont take much force.
16) Turn off the torch, smile, and take a nice drink of your favorite beverage! The Hard part is over!!
17) See the "Rock" install video here -> [www.youtube.com]
I hope this helps!
Good luck,
Ron
For a current list, and to order custom tools and accessories I make for your CarveWright, see [www.cw-parts.com]
See a quick video of the new Rock Chuck in action! [www.youtube.com]
See the Rock install video at [www.youtube.com]
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/28/2009 02:24PM by rjustice.
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Re: Removing the QC... Details for stubborn chucks November 03, 2009 12:26AM |
Hess
You cut that out right now. Go see a Doctor and get some help while there is still time left.
Just kidding with you Pal.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/03/2009 12:53PM by PCW.
You cut that out right now. Go see a Doctor and get some help while there is still time left.
Just kidding with you Pal.Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/03/2009 12:53PM by PCW.
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Re: Removing the QC... Details for stubborn chucks November 15, 2009 03:37PM |
Yep,
Hess qualifies for the frequent buyer discount!!!
Hess qualifies for the frequent buyer discount!!!
Quote
Hess
Hello and welcome this is where you find all the nuts hanging out, (go head Steve I dare ya)
I vote package 1
and when you can see Ring Neck for his dust hood I run 2 units and soon a 3rd all have the rock in some form all will have the dust hood also it is a cheap investment when you consider bits cost 40 each
beside it saves me from having to blow so hard on the hose to clean up the machine. Hell maybe they meant suck on it. ever wonder why its called a BJ? I ponder thing like that
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